Entry: Tossed By Waves Wednesday, June 02, 2004




Just about every weekend my friend Amy and I like to get up early in the morning get a cuppa, and head west on Highway 46. Almost at the speed of light because we're traveling, because we just can't get there fast enough! It always seems as we truly are moving that fast, partly due to the lack of caffeine not yet consumed into my body. Also partly because my head is swelled up with anticipation.

As we're traveling and trying not to get caught by the CHP(California Highway Patrol) we indulge in thoughts of the ocean and it's air. The ocean air that soothes the skin, then the lungs right before it soothes the stress of our journey. I know I write often of breezes, but the breeze coming from the pacific, to me, is indescribable!

When we get there I'm so overwhelmed with excitement that I can hardly get my wetsuite on fast enough! Checking what condition the waves are in always comes next. Then Amy and I catch a glimpse of the sparkle in each others eyes and with big grins on our faces we know the water is only yards away.

The anticipation continues to grow as the trek from where we've parked the car to where the water meets the sand seems never ending. Eventual making it there in what seemed like hours was actually only two and a half minutes. Then reaching waters edge stopping only briefly enough to evaluate the surrounding once more. We pray that God protects us from harm and thanking Him for the awesome waves. I secretly tell Him that if I don't get eaten by a shark, I'll be ever thankful. I am! Promise!! Amy stretches and I pick myself up from the wet sand and we head into the ocean. The waves come up to meet us like children running to meet their mothers. I don't know why it is that in my dreams I am never s nervous to greet the waves as I am in the real life. Maybe I dream myself to be taller than I really am. Despite my fear I push and paddle as far as my courage will allow me to go. With every strength I have battling the waves in hopes the perfect one will be along swiftly. Drop in I know that I am never more thankful to be alive!

So I guess it is true to say that in the face of my fear to be placed in Gods' merciful hands, there's no better place I'll ever know myself to be more alive than the moment I meet Him face to face.

I love surfing!!


 



 

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